Whirlpool Duet Washer Error Code E01 F09 – How To Fix – How To Clear?
Whirlpool Duet Washer Error Code E01 F09 means LONG DRAIN TIME.
When your Whirlpool washer goes into drain mode and the drain time is past 8 minutes and not reaching the reset level in the pressure sensor then the valves in the drain are turned off and the drain pump will cease to pump out the water. This means there is a possible fault in the Drain pump, Pressure Switch, or the Electronic Control Board – CCU. Follow the instructions below as the error code may be coming up because a part is bent, clogged or needs to be rescued or cleaned out.
Whirlpool Washer Error Code E01 – F09 – Fix Repair – Clear Error Code
– If you use the wrong detergent, SUDS can cause a delay in draining out the water and the error code can display.
– Your Whirlpool washer will drain for 4 minutes then pause for 5 minutes.
– Your washer will then try to drain 4 for additional minutes.
– F9E1 or E01 F09 will display if the Whirlpool washer does not drain.
A Whirlpool Duet Washing Machine SHOULD drain out the water in approximately 2 minutes or less when running normally with no issues.
Here are some reasons the Whirlpool Washer Error Code E01 F09 will display:
1 – You may have a drain hose that is bent and not letting the water drain out – Check the back of the washer.
2 – Be certain the drain hose height does not exceed 96″ or the washer cannot drain properly.
3 – Clean the drain pump filter on the bottom front of the washer of any particles or objects.
4 – Check the connections to be sure they are secure from the tub to the air trap – air trap to pressure hose – pressure hose to pressure sensor.
When your Whirlpool washer goes into drain mode and the drain time is past 8 minutes and not reaching the reset level in the pressure sensor then the valves in the drain are turned off and the drain pump will cease to pump out the water. This means there is a possible fault in the Drain pump, Pressure Switch, or the Electronic Control Board – CCU. Follow the instructions below as the error code may be coming up because a part is bent, clogged or needs to be rescued or cleaned out.
Whirlpool Washer Error Code E01 – F09 – Fix Repair – Clear Error Code
– If you use the wrong detergent, SUDS can cause a delay in draining out the water and the error code can display.
– Your Whirlpool washer will drain for 4 minutes then pause for 5 minutes.
– Your washer will then try to drain 4 for additional minutes.
– F9E1 or E01 F09 will display if the Whirlpool washer does not drain.
A Whirlpool Duet Washing Machine SHOULD drain out the water in approximately 2 minutes or less when running normally with no issues.
Here are some reasons the Whirlpool Washer Error Code E01 F09 will display:
1 – You may have a drain hose that is bent and not letting the water drain out – Check the back of the washer.
2 – Be certain the drain hose height does not exceed 96″ or the washer cannot drain properly.
3 – Clean the drain pump filter on the bottom front of the washer of any particles or objects.
4 – Check the connections to be sure they are secure from the tub to the air trap – air trap to pressure hose – pressure hose to pressure sensor.
It was it opening so I could get to the trap so I turned it off and now it's locked itself. How do I get it open again?
TY
TY
There is no door in front for drain pump
I had this happen to me. The door locked and I couldnt open it. I had to unplug the washer for 3 minutes. Its got to have time to drain out power fully. Then, plug back in.
Door should open. Did for me.
Door should open. Did for me.
To remove the code, press pause or cancel button twice and the power button once. If the code is still displayed, unplug the washer or disconnect the power for one minute. Items were detected in the washer during the Clean Washer cycle. Remove items from the drum and restart the Clean Washer cycle.
Whirlpool Duet Washer Error Code E01 F09 – How To Fix – How To Clear? Does any one know how top clear this, I've unpluged it for 1/2 hour and still won't go.
Code E01&F09 door is locked unplugged washer waited hour did the reset door is still lock
To get the door to unlock you have to take the back of washer off. You will then take the pump filter off,(turns by hand). Drain water out. Put it all back together, plug it in, wait a minute, then door will unlock.
I found out how to fix it! I just fixed mine myself! Here’s what you do:
1. In order to unlock the washer, simply press the power button. The washer will drain (as much as it can) and unlock the door.
2. Here’s the tutorial i found on YouTube for clearing the blockage in the drain pipe! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rR7KJWTxCuc
3. Place the back panel back onto your washer, plug it back in, and viola! Your washer is ready to go!
Cheers!
1. In order to unlock the washer, simply press the power button. The washer will drain (as much as it can) and unlock the door.
2. Here’s the tutorial i found on YouTube for clearing the blockage in the drain pipe! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rR7KJWTxCuc
3. Place the back panel back onto your washer, plug it back in, and viola! Your washer is ready to go!
Cheers!
I thought I'd post my findings after struggling with my washer on and off for the good part of the year.
I think I've found an uncommon solution to E01 F09 long drain error, and maybe the cause of the "SUD" error for excessive suds. Washer had intermittent problems stopping with the E01 F09 error. After a while, it was every cycle and was impossible to wash a load. First thing I did was check the pump trap and all discharge hoses. My particular model didn't have an access door at the bottom front, so I had to remove the entire panel. There was quite a bit of debris caught, but looked like there was still plenty of areas for water to bypass. I removed all discharge hoses and took them outside and sprayed through them with the garden hose. Some stuff came out which was caked to the sides of the tube, but nothing crazy. The washer seemed to work for about another month, then started the same thing again. Thinking I had some kind of drive motor failure, I wanted to give it one last shot before ordering a new motor. From the little info I could find, here is how the washer comes to the conclusion that it's not draining enough. When the cycle is first started, it logs the amperage (or some other form of measurement using the motor) as it tumbles the clothes for a few seconds. When the clothes have been washed, drained, or at some points in between, it also takes note of the amperage, and can verify that there is still too much water in the drum. The heavier the load saturated by water, the more amps are drawn by the motor in order to turn it. If it's outside of the programmed threshold, it flags an error. My washer had no sensors which could detect water level, it's done using the drive motor readings. It would make sense that a faulty motor would be the cause of the errors, and looks like it was in some cases.
Moving on with my diagnosis, I checked the discharge pump operation by watching the discharge pipe and lifting it out of the standpipe to verify that water was easily coming out, and that my standpipe itself was not backing up with water. That looked fine, so I took troubleshooting a step further and removed the pump completely, and the rubber bellows connecting to the bottom of the drum. I inspected the pump impeller and reached up into the drum as far as I could to check for anything that may have gotten stuck in there, but all looked good. I once again removed the discharge hose/hoses and blasted them out with the garden hose, but I noticed something when I did it this time.... It was almost like I heard and felt a faint "pop" when blasting the hose to clean it out, and seemed to flow water through a little more. There seemed to be a one way valve inside the hose, if I remember correctly, water would only go through one direction. I didn't give it much thought at the time.
SOLUTION
After assembling everything, the washer has been fine for about 6 months now. After giving it some thought, I'm wondering if the problem all along has been a sticking check valve in the discharge hose. After looking through all parts of the washer, that is the only logical explanation as to why I had gotten the error twice, and not really finding anything obvious which would have clogged the system, other than the faint "pop" and release of pressure from the discharge hose. I didn't experience this "pop" the first time I cleaned out the hose. It's worth a shot if you are having these issues.
I think I've found an uncommon solution to E01 F09 long drain error, and maybe the cause of the "SUD" error for excessive suds. Washer had intermittent problems stopping with the E01 F09 error. After a while, it was every cycle and was impossible to wash a load. First thing I did was check the pump trap and all discharge hoses. My particular model didn't have an access door at the bottom front, so I had to remove the entire panel. There was quite a bit of debris caught, but looked like there was still plenty of areas for water to bypass. I removed all discharge hoses and took them outside and sprayed through them with the garden hose. Some stuff came out which was caked to the sides of the tube, but nothing crazy. The washer seemed to work for about another month, then started the same thing again. Thinking I had some kind of drive motor failure, I wanted to give it one last shot before ordering a new motor. From the little info I could find, here is how the washer comes to the conclusion that it's not draining enough. When the cycle is first started, it logs the amperage (or some other form of measurement using the motor) as it tumbles the clothes for a few seconds. When the clothes have been washed, drained, or at some points in between, it also takes note of the amperage, and can verify that there is still too much water in the drum. The heavier the load saturated by water, the more amps are drawn by the motor in order to turn it. If it's outside of the programmed threshold, it flags an error. My washer had no sensors which could detect water level, it's done using the drive motor readings. It would make sense that a faulty motor would be the cause of the errors, and looks like it was in some cases.
Moving on with my diagnosis, I checked the discharge pump operation by watching the discharge pipe and lifting it out of the standpipe to verify that water was easily coming out, and that my standpipe itself was not backing up with water. That looked fine, so I took troubleshooting a step further and removed the pump completely, and the rubber bellows connecting to the bottom of the drum. I inspected the pump impeller and reached up into the drum as far as I could to check for anything that may have gotten stuck in there, but all looked good. I once again removed the discharge hose/hoses and blasted them out with the garden hose, but I noticed something when I did it this time.... It was almost like I heard and felt a faint "pop" when blasting the hose to clean it out, and seemed to flow water through a little more. There seemed to be a one way valve inside the hose, if I remember correctly, water would only go through one direction. I didn't give it much thought at the time.
SOLUTION
After assembling everything, the washer has been fine for about 6 months now. After giving it some thought, I'm wondering if the problem all along has been a sticking check valve in the discharge hose. After looking through all parts of the washer, that is the only logical explanation as to why I had gotten the error twice, and not really finding anything obvious which would have clogged the system, other than the faint "pop" and release of pressure from the discharge hose. I didn't experience this "pop" the first time I cleaned out the hose. It's worth a shot if you are having these issues.
So I bought a new drain pump and tried that. It didn't fix it. After days of battling with it, found this tube was completely clogged. After I cleaned this out it fixed it! I also cleared out the opening where it connects tot he drum. It's directly behind the back panel and connects to the drum. Good luck to others!
Mine displayed the mentioned error codes, so I watched the utube video listed previously, decided it's probably the clogged filter. Took off the back panel noticed one of the 2 wires going to the pump broke off. Soldered it back, checked filter since I was in there, it was good. Re-assembled and problem fixed. I would NOT recommend going in through the front (unless you do have an access panel there). It looked way more difficult, and I never would have seen the problem wire in this case.
This thread was very helpful. I'm a fairly mechanically inclined 57 year old woman, but wouldn't have known where to start without these suggestions and the youtube video. My mission was a success and it only took me an hour. Best of all, no money spent on repairs. If left to my husband, we'd be waiting a week or more for a repair person.
I received this error and a blinking door lock with a humming sound. I watched the YouTube video above, removed the back panel, and checked the filter. Sure enough, it was clogged with random items from the past 6 years. I put it back together, plugged it in, and it is now working great!
Stop using Color Catchers - I just pulled four from my filter after getting the E1-F9 error. Trying to convince my wife they're a waste of money will be harder than crawling under the washing machine to get to the filter!
Have a Whirlpool Duet washer. We got the E1 - F9 error about a month ago. Thought maybe it was the control board. Had a service guy come out, he was going to order a new board. But later that day it worked fine, so we put that on hold.
Ran fine for a month, then we got the error again, and the washer wouldn't drain. I read this thread, and then I took the back off, to drain the unit and check the filter. But as soon as I got the back off, I noticed a wire was broken off from it's connector. I ran down to the local appliance guy and got a new insulated connector and crimped it on. Washer just ran as expected.
My hypothesis is that wire connection was going bad, which explained the intermittent issue until it finally broke. Cost to repair: $0. Time spent about an hour.
Thanks to everyone for the info in this thread.
Ran fine for a month, then we got the error again, and the washer wouldn't drain. I read this thread, and then I took the back off, to drain the unit and check the filter. But as soon as I got the back off, I noticed a wire was broken off from it's connector. I ran down to the local appliance guy and got a new insulated connector and crimped it on. Washer just ran as expected.
My hypothesis is that wire connection was going bad, which explained the intermittent issue until it finally broke. Cost to repair: $0. Time spent about an hour.
Thanks to everyone for the info in this thread.